Cambodia

Cambodia moved us in so many ways. To begin, we arrived in Phnom Penh from Laos at the most chaotic and arguably fun moment of the year to visit this capital - the Water Festival - where 4 million additional people come to the city and boat races light up the river.

Francois was on his 6th day of a bad fever and headaches so our first task was seeking medical care while weaving our way through the crazy traffic of bodies, motos and cars. The doctor told him he probably was just coming out of a serious viral infection...possibly dengue fever! So rest and fluids were required. From this point forward, I referred to Francois as the "Dengue survivor" :o) Francois did slowly get better but, unfortunately, his immune system seemed weakened for the next month of our travels. This turned out to be by far the biggest challenge of our trip until now. Keeping our spirits up and adapting the travels to respect his energy levels (which seemed to change from day to day) tested us both. Nothing makes you appreciate good health like a prolonged illness, so as Francois began to feel better he seemed to savor every moment of this journey.

We really enjoyed the two weeks prior to meeting up with my parents in Siem Reap...exploring the countryside, floating villages, beaches and old colonial towns. We definitely felt that we were off the tourist trail. The very fact that there were few sights to visit was liberating. Our job was to soak up the atmosphere and let Francois' body heal.

We heard some haunting testimonies in Cambodia of the devastating war and genocide that stripped this country and it's people of life and dignity and lead them to some of the darkest places the world has ever known. Every Cambodian who shared their story with us had lost multiple family members under the Khmer Rouge and faced starvation and suffering beyond imagination. The wounds are still very raw in Cambodia with very few of the leaders having faced justice and an entire generation (especially those who were educated) having been murdered. The corruption and impunity of the government is mind blowing, reaching all levels. One of our guides had previously worked for the government and explained that she had to pay one third of her salary to her boss in order to keep her position. It was hard not to feel discouraged here, especially as any dissidents are severely punished. Those who spoke to us critically of their government did so in hushed voices and in private places, for to be heard could mean losing their job or being jailed.

As were the powerful stories we heard, the temples of Angkor were an unforgettable experience. So majestic and large in scope, we had not seen all the sights after three days. This was also the meeting point with my parents which meant traveling with amazing private guides and staying in nice hotels. It felt like a taste of the good life after roughing it for a few months...not that bamboo huts and street food don't have their charm :o)

Hopefully, some of the pictures tell the story better than my words can describe.